With full manual mode on your digital SLR camera can be a daunting prospect. In this mode, the camera provides the user with complete control over all parameters and can be a lot to remember.
But if you have practiced with aperture priority and shutter priority modes, so it is an easy step to full manual mode.
Let's take a look at the three key elements with manual operation.
Opening
Controlling the amount of light entering the camera through the lens aperture. These quantities are represented by "f-stops" and a grand opening is represented by a small number. For example, f2 is a large opening and a small opening is F22. Learning from the opening is an important aspect of the photography section.
However, the opening is also controls the depth of field. Depth of field indicates how much of the image and behind the subject in focus. Shallow depth of field is represented by a small number, then f2 give a photographer a depth of field, while f22 would give a greater depth of field.
The depth of field is very important in photography, and should be one of the first things that a photo of the photographer feels when composing. For example, a beautiful landscape shot is not as nice as a very shallow depth of field used by accident!
Shutter speed
The shutter speed controls the amount of light entering the camera through the mirror - i.e., in the hole of the camera, as opposed to the lens.
DSLRs can user the parameter 1/4000 shutter on th of a second speed for about 30 seconds ... and in some models, "pear", which can keep the shutter open as long as they want, the photographer.
Photographers use fast shutter speeds to freeze action, and with slow shutter speeds at night to allow more light into the camera.
Of course these are only a few. However, slow shutter, photographers can make no hand holding their cameras and have to use a tripod. It is widely accepted that 1/60 second is the lowest speed at which it is possible to keep the hand.
Therefore, a fast shutter allows only a small amount of light into the camera, while a slower shutter speed allows plenty of light into the camera.
ISO
ISO refers to the camera's sensitivity to light, and has its origins in film photography, where the different film speeds different sensitivities.
ISO settings on digital cameras are usually 100-6400 high ISO settings allow more light into the camera, and allow the user to take pictures in low light. But the downside is that at the highest ISO settings, the image will begin to show noticeable noise and grain.
ISO should always be the last thing to be changed because the noise is just rubbish! Let your ISO to the lowest standard.
Everyone gathers
So to remember with all these things, why in manual mode, shoot anything?
Well, it's usually for all reasons mentioned above - who wants to have control over depth of field, and you are shooting a landscape are, or if you do not want to freeze the action noise, or. And these are just a few examples.
As most advanced photographer who would like to take control of your camera. DSLRs are brilliantly intelligent, but do not always know what you are trying to photograph. Its main objective is to get enough light in the image, and do not always know what you are trying to achieve with your photo.
So, here's commitment is to remember: If you leave the camera with her mouth a lot of light, for example, have a faster shutter speed and low ISO, so that your image is not too exposed. Or, if you use a slow shutter speed, you will probably have a small locking aperture allows plenty of light into the camera. Once you understand the general idea, you can easily understand the different settings you should use.
What are the parameters that you really need will also depend on the amount of light available, it is. For example, I live in the UK, where the weather is usually pretty gray, and often am struggling to get enough light for my camera. In direct contrast, when I lived in Africa, I often had to do with over-exposure, and with a shallow depth of field (and thus a large opening) can sometimes be a real challenge! No absolute parameters, unfortunately.
Achieving the correct exposure
Fortunately, if you are not completely dependent on the correct exposure assumptions. All DSLRs have a resistor and an indicator for the level of exposure. It will be displayed in the viewfinder and on the LCD screen or the camera's monitor or external information (depending on which brand and model of DSLR you have). They are used as a line with numbers -2 (or -3), or two (or three), which can be seen through it.
The numbers represent the membranes and there are fingerprints on the third line a statement. Once the shutter speed, aperture and ISO you want, press the shutter button halfway, and see this line. If the game is a negative number, it means your intake be underexposed, and a positive number means that overexposure. The aim is to achieve a measure of the "zero", but I tend to care whether in a third step or present, that photography is subjective in his own eyes.
So if your shot will be underexposed in large part, for example, a little more light will probably leave in your photo. Depending on the subject of the image, you can use the aperture or shutter speed set ... or, as a last resort, the ISO.
Follow these tips and you'll soon be full manual mode under control!
